Kind Words

Remember this one shot in the New York Times T Style Magazine that came at the very end of 2010? Well, I just stumbled on some words the photographer (Alice O'Malley) said about Freja and the experience of shooting her. They're so lovely that I just had to share.

"Over the years you have developed an amazing body of work featuring your friends, an extended circle of downtown New York artists. How is it for you shooting people you don't know? Is it important for you to create some sort of intimacy? And how do you do this when you only have the subject for say, 40 minutes - or less?

Less! I had 10 minutes with Freja [Beha Erichsen]. She arrived at the Chelsea off a runway show at twilight, and we ran up to the roof to catch the last drops of sun. That’s when I understood the skill of a professional model. Her genius in front of the camera meant that we could make a great picture in only a few minutes. And somehow we found time to talk about the first wave of feminism in America. I always make a connection with my subjects; that's what I photograph, our connection."

Writing this blog makes me forget sometimes (ironically enough) why I like Freja so much. Maybe I get too focused on the words, or trying to come up with something to say. But whenever I read stuff like this, no matter how small or insignificant it might seem, it gives me a jolt and makes me remember "oh yeah, that's why." :) Because she's a great model and she can talk about feminism. But of course, those are just a few of the many reasons why.

Image Credit: nytimes.com

More Than a Clothes Hanger

Maybe my perception is a bit skewed, but doesn't it seem like models are once again back in the spotlight as individuals with personalities? Definitely not back to the level of the 1990's Supermodels, but no where near as cold and dismissive as the early 2000's felt. These days it feels like people everywhere want to hear what models have to say, wear what they wear, and follow every turn of their career.

I know this is all anecdotal evidence, but the model threads on tFS are exploding with hyper activity. Just think of a model (besides Freja) in your head and you can bet that someone has created a "fuckyeah" tumblr in her honor. It just feels like models at all levels of the industry are gaining in recognition and success (i.e. Rosie HW cast in the new Transformers movie and models edging out celebs in campaigns). Does it feel like this to anyone else, or is it just me?

I realize that my perception might be more than a bit skewed because I keep up with a lot of agencies and new models for fun (yes, for fun...I'm weird like that), so I always have models on my mind. And maybe this is why they seem to be more prominent to me, buoyed along by an internet culture conducive to the cultivation of niches that are otherwise too specialized to have warranted attention before. We can practically trace Freja's career from the very beginning, with only a few holes here and there. But with a model like Missy Rayder, who's career height came before the internet played such a huge role in fashion and models, the early days of her career aren't nearly as well documented. I guess what I'm trying to say is that I sense a new era where models are once again becoming celebrities in their own right.

The eminent Cathy Horyn seems to sense a small part of this as well. Just read the opening sentences of her write up on the Valentino HC show:

"A thick mob of people, mostly young and nearly all clutching cameras, stood in the blazing 6 p.m. sun outside the entrance to the Valentino Show in the Place Vendôme. They extended to the curb, and guests had to walk through a narrow path the onlookers seemed reluctant to provide. Liz Hurley was inside, in a pretty fuchsia slip dress, but most of the other V.I.P.’s were young socialites and, of course, models. The throng was waiting for them, a glimpse of someone famous and beautiful."

So maybe I'm not too off the mark here. For when did a model like Freja, a model who isn't Kate Moss or being touted as the next big thing a la Lara Stone, become popular enough to garner a two page cover feature in one of the big Vogues?? Just think about it for a moment, and you'll see how amazing it is all things considered. She's popular to be sure, but definitely not what you would call "mainstream." So the fact that Vogue UK put her on their cover and wrote a feature story on her says something, don't you think? Model as an individual. Model as a voice. Model as role model. Model as more than just a clothes hanger.

A few excerpts stuck out to me:

"Face to face, Freja's personality is harder to discern. Although she embodies an intoxicating cool, she's shy, reserved and defensive about her privacy in a way that doesn't invite girly conversation. While her slouch suggests someone who isn't entirely at east with her five feet 10 inches (she was 5ft 9in by the age of 12), she has fantastic command of her body in front of the camera."

Taking the above into account, I wonder how Freja would feel if she knew this blog existed? Now I'm SO glad that I've always made it a point to stay away from her private life and focus instead on her work. But if she's as private as they say she is, even such an intense focus on her work is probably disconcerting. People say work is work, but as a model your work is your body. You model long enough (do anything long enough for that matter) and it becomes part of you, nearly inseparable from the way you define yourself. So maybe the intense scrutiny over Freja's work on this blog constitutes a different kind of invasion of privacy? I don't know. I haven't received any ceased and desist letters yet so.....

"'Freja is entirely her own person,' says photographer Josh Olins. 'I love to photographer her. What you see at first is this tough boyishness, but then comes something else, a sensitive, softer side. She's beautifully androgynous.' For all this boy-talk, though, Freja is very pretty, with baby-soft olive skin, a high forehead and deep brown eyes that flicker when her fringe skims her lashes. 'Freja's innate sense of style somehow translates into the way she is photographed,' adds Vogue's fashion director Lucinda Chambers. 'She is one of only a handful of models who have this unique combination of a strong personality and look, while at the same time being a total chameleon.'"

I knew I loved Lucinda for a reason. This is exactly what I've been saying, and what I try to explore, on this blog. I feel justified, and not so crazy for posting all my long babbling posts. :) Anyway, the article is a great read so make sure to check it out if you haven't already. There are lots of great tidbits about Freja in there, including bits about her upbringing, her family and her hobbies. She comes across very well on the page, just like she did on film. Memorable, funny and endearing enough to convert the naysayers and win over new fans.

Image Credits: scans by tFS member fearless123

FDIB

Great little write up on Freja today over at Fashion Does It Better. Definitely make sure to check it out because it's intelligent, insightful and succinct (something I'm not capable of). My favorite part:

"Or simply that careers are not straight lines leading either to the top or to oblivion but made of u-turns and other spirals ? Labyriths, maybe. Who gets lost today will be found tomorrow."

How beautiful is that thought? The picture that it paints is just brilliant. The site is definitely on my list of "must-reads" everyday. It's always thought provoking and inspirational in a way. And it has it's own quirky signature style of writing that I love. FBID focuses mainly on very new girls who are relative unknowns to the majority of us, but occasionally they will spotlight a girl like Freja or Maryna if there is something insightful to be said about them and the impact they're having on the current landscape of fashion. And Freja is definitely having that moment right now.

The Economics of a Fashion Career

Craig Arend of modelsoffduty.com has another interesting interview with a fashion insider. Last time it was founder of Next Model Management, Faith Kates. This time it's Storm Models founder Sarah Doukas, aka the woman who discovered Kate Moss. Freja is never mentioned outright in these interviews, but I always think that what is being said naturally relates to her and to all models. If the models are what draw you to fashion, then it's so intriguing to hear insight and perspectives from the people who deal firsthand with bringing our favorite girls to light.

Here are some excerpts, but read the whole thing if you have the time and are interested in model development.

"...Look at our magazines. Look at the campaigns. They're all celebrities. Actresses. Somebody well known, they take up what, 80-90% of fabulous campaigns. You know that's because that's the power of somebody whose got a name....

But if you're in the business. If you see your chance that somebody can go that route and if they want to, you've got to take it because it's going to be a huge benefit financially to them and it's going to be a benefit to the agency...it feeds on itself. As soon as you do some press, it's unbelievable. You get so many opportunities open. People are calling. It opens doors." (my emphasis)

I know I've mentioned this little theory here before, but I think IMG and the recession are playing a huge hand in Freja's current career status. One thing I've never been able to wrap my head around is why Freja is seeing such a resurgence at this stage in her career. She started off really huge, booking exclusives and only-girl, blue chip campaigns. But as we all know, the lifespan of a model's career is usually pretty short. Most girls only get a few seasons before we unabashedly move on to the next it girl from the next it country. So this is how I see things: Freja had two really good years after her debut in 2005, but then she started to fade away as expected. By the end of 2007, she cut her signature long hair and fringe off, skipped lots of big shows and was booking less print work. By all accounts she should have been done. She should have faded away to the occasional Asian ad campaign and appearance in some random catalog. But she didn't. She came back stronger than ever, but nearly unrecognizable from the simple Danish girl in the Ksubis and keffiyeh that she once was. She was cooler, smoother and more part of the industry than she ever had been before.

She was doing more press, projecting a laid back yet untouchable image, and booking more campaigns than ever before. This career roundabout started happening towards the end of 2008 and gained full momentum during 2009, just as the economy was going bust. We could just chalk that up to coincidence, but I really think more was at play. IMG, being a huge, worldwide company, stood to lose a lot of money in the face of pecuniary caution brought about by worldwide economic panic. So what do they do? Step it up and really make their best girls work. Get the most out of them and really capitalize on their earning power in order to lessen the impact of the recession. After all, the FW0910 campaign season was Freja's best one yet. I know I'm not really doing a good job of explaining my theory, but it all makes sense in my head. And Sarah's quote above seems to give some backing to my thoughts. But of course, it's just a theory because how much can I possibly know about what really goes on?

Anyway, here is another quote from the interview that I think is quite unintentionally funny, especially if you're a Freja fan:

"You know you always get these girls that make a load of money. You know they're fantastic looking girls and they're doing brilliantly. And they're like, "you know what, I'm going to cut all my hair off. I'm going to go seriously edgy. I want you to get me into...." And I'm like "You're taking a massive risk. You're going to ruin your market in the short-term" And it happens. It does happen. I can mention lots of girls who it has happened....I always think, "You should be glad for what you've got. I understand wanting to aspire to better and greater things. But, you could in the short term lose your whole market "

Doesn't it sound like Sarah is specifically talking about Freja here? I know that some people still blame the short hair for her 2008 career slump. That could be the case, but things are rarely that simple and straightforward. I'm sure there were lots of other complex factors at play. Lots of other minute details all combining into one path that has led us Freja to the career she has today. All theories and musings aside, no one really knows what's happened and why but Freja herself. Isn't it fun to speculate though?

Fashion week now. I'll try to update as much as possible, but I'm only going to do updates on the first show Freja walks in each city, and then a recap on the entire city. It's just too repetitive to cover each show because I know all of you will be refreshing tFS every second. Of course, this is all assuming that Freja even walks. Only a few more days before we find out for sure. :)

On Success and Street Style

Craig Arend of Altamira has a really interesting interview with Faith Kates up on his site. As far as modeling goes, Faith is a pretty important figure in the industry considering that she started Next Model Management. Next is home to models like Abbey Lee, Karmen, Anja, Anna J, Catherine and Karlie, so it's definitely one of the heavy hitters agency wise.

The interview is a very good read if you're interested in models and how their careers develop. There isn't an outright mention of Freja, but while I was reading some of Faith's comments Freja did come to my mind:

"...I think that in our world...when a girl starts, if you have one of the three or 4 really important photographers behind you, that's the girls that are making it. So if you have Steven Meisel, you have Mario Testino, you have a Craig McDean, you have a David Sims... you have one of those guys behind you, you're in."

"The photographers and the magazines have all the power. Designers are important, don't get me wrong. They are very important. But I think it goes first with if you can get to the photographer. There are some girls that are really photographers girls."

One of the reasons I admire Freja so much is because she's managed to become successful without the huge support of a major photographer. On her level of modeling, she is the only girl I can think of who's the exception to the rules Faith speaks about above. Coco, Daria, Stam, and Elise all had Meisel's blessing. Catherine was a Testino girl through and through. But Freja? I really believe she built her career by staying true to her own individuality, knowing her strong suits, and playing off of her physical strengths. Yes, Karl is a huge supporter of her now, but at the very beginning of her career Freja made a name for herself on the strength of her modeling abilities. I know I'm biased, but I think that even to non-fans, her charm and appeal are undeniable and her face is truly gorgeous. Her androgynous characteristics merely heighten her appeal in that they provide a complimentary (and perhaps contradictory) contrast to her feminine beauty. Most girls are lucky enough to get the backing of top photographers, but only once in a blue moon is a girl lucky and talented enough to get to where Freja is without their help.

"You don't have to care about clothes...I don't think you have to love clothes. I don't think you have to dislike clothes. I just think you have to know how to wear clothes and know what feels good and right on you."

Reading this brought to my mind Freja's street style. To be frank, I'm bored with the way she looks off the runway because she's utterly predictable. Black, leather, black and more black. But even though I feel this way, I still think Freja looks good every time I see a new street style pic. And it's because of what Faith refers to above. Freja absolutely knows what is right for her and she sticks to it with unwavering loyalty. She doesn't experiment like Iekeliene, Irina, Kinga or Hanne because that wouldn't fit with her modeling persona. She wears clothes that look right on her and probably feel good to her. And she's most definitely mastered the art of minimalist chic with an androgynous flair. This might sound cliched and frivolous, but I really believe that when you feel good and comfortable about the clothes you wear those feelings translate to other parts of your life, and people are innately drawn to that.

I think that if I ever saw Freja wearing a dress off the runway I would laugh. But oddly enough, she looks perfectly normal wearing a dress on the runway. Go figure. It's amazing how much the context can impart the meaning in a situation. Anyway, what do you think about Freja's street style? Why do you think Freja's been able to attain her level of success? Sometimes I think I can be so biased that I lose all ability to even conceive of a different viewpoint, so yours are welcome.

Image Credits: altamira.blogspot