Androgyny I Can Support

If you're going to do androgyny, this is how to do it. Androgyny doesn't always have to rely on tough styling, scowls, leather biker jackets, and other overtly masculine signifiers. Editors don't have to hit us over the head with these types of references. Besides, true androgyny should be able to stand on it's own, separate from masculine and feminine aides.

Venus In Furs
Vogue Italia November 2010
Ph: Steven Meisel
Styling: Karl Templer
Other Models: Alla Kostromicheva, Andrej Pejic, Iris Strubegger, Iselin Steiro, Michael Tintiuc, Tomek Szczukiecki

This editorial is the perfect example of that, and it's the first time I don't mind Freja being lumped in under the androgynous category. The pared down, natural appearance of each model is allowed to shine, and this minimalistic approach is quite successful at getting down to the essence of what makes each person androgynous. When the models all look so similar, when they're all in skewed positions with limbs akimbo, and when they're allowed to interact and play off of each other, the line truly becomes blurred between male/female and feminine/masculine. A person who doesn't know who these models are would have a very difficult time discerning between the women and the men. And that is the true definition of androgyny: being neither distinguishably male nor distinguishably female.

I really feel like this is the first editorial where I've been able to truly see and appreciate both the feminine and masculine aspects of Freja's face, and indeed all the other models' faces as well. From shot to shot Freja looks different, and that's what a good photographer can do. A good photographer doesn't have to rely on tropes or stereotypes to make a point. A good photographer smashes those things, and gets down to the basic essence of it all. There is nothing signaling to us the viewer, telling us that we should see these models in a particular way. So now it's up to us individually to see what genders and gender signifiers we want to see. This openness is what I appreciate and what allows me to see these models both in new ways and in ways they're usually meant to be seen.

Another thing I love about this editorial is how the models and the fashion don't seem to overshadow each other. Since I'm interested in models more than fashion, I have a tendency to overlook the fashion sometimes. But in this editorial the lack of clothing enhances the fashion for me, ironically enough. I find myself paying as much attention to the fur and leather as I do to the models. Models and clothes are working in tandem to create one huge, glorious bacchanal of bodies. And now that I think about it, it's so fitting that in a fashion story about fur and leather, the models should all be in their own natural skins. Another brilliant and subtly obvious touch. Obvious because you immediately see the raw nakedness of the bodies. But subtle because it takes you a minute to realize that the only thing being featured here is skin, be it animal or human. It's a little creepy when you think about it that way, for it's quite literally skin on skin in more ways than one (especially when the bodies are piled on top of each other). But that's classic Meisel. Even when things seem pretty straightforward, there's always an off kilter element underlying the simplicity. And considering the fact that there are so many naked to nearly naked bodies intertwined together, this story doesn't feel particularly sexual to me. It's more desexualized since gender is wiped away, and this gives us the freedom to appreciate the clothes and the bodies for what they are. It's funny how something that seems so overtly sexual at first, can become the opposite with a deeper glance.....at least for me.

These eccentricities and complexities are what distinguishes between the good, and the great. I don't know if this editorial and cover will stand the test of time, but what I do know is that it's the first piece of work that's made me excited again. The second I saw the cover, even before I saw this editorial, I knew I just had to have this. I think the last time I felt this way was with Freja's last VI cover, so I guess there's a theme here. Anyway, I just have to remember that this is what it feels like when things are great. When we don't have to settle for mediocrity. When we don't have to strain to find nice things to say just so we can be diplomatic. It's comforting to know I can have this instantaneous and unbridled reaction of excitement again.

Image Credits: zfashionblog.wordpress.com

Identification

Freja Beha, the Rock N Roll Star
i-D Magazine Spring 2010
Ph: Emma Summerton
Styling: Edward Enninful

After seeing Freja's i-D cover, I have to admit that I didn't have high hopes for her editorial inside. Well, I was most definitely pleasantly surprised by the lovely, albeit too short, only-girl story. Just four shots; all of them upper body ones with one profile shot. They're almost like a series of portraits, and that's what I think is so interesting about them. We haven't seen Freja in a story like this, so it's great to see her continually expand her fashion portfolio and her ability to converse with the camera.

With a story that's set up like this, I really think it's intent is to bring focus to the details of the clothes, rather than the full head-to-toe looks. At least, those details are what stood out to me enough that I ironically ended up wanting to see the runway looks in their entirety anyway. Like, I saw the intricacies in the Louise Golden piece and I just had to see the whole thing for comparison. The details made me appreciate the whole look....and the same can be said for the model.

By focusing on the natural charisma and grace of Freja's face (the details) this editorial makes us appreciate all her abilities as a model (the whole package). Earlier on I asked the question "Androgyny or femininity?" Well, here we have the perfect example of how easily and effortlessly Freja can traveling between both poles. This editorial is a great model profile piece in that it provides the girl with a vehicle by which to display her full skill and range in subtlety and emotion. To be able to carry this off successfully, you have to be a model who's well versed in all facets of human emotion and who's able to convey them with a slight alteration of the mouth here, or a slight arch of the brow there.

With the title bearing Freja's name, it's clear that she's supposed to be the star here and she most certainly delivers even within the limitation of four short pages. I love that she can be strong and dominant, showing us different aspects of her personality here. But she can just as easily be a mere clothes hanger, if the situation calls for it, letting the clothes take focus as was the case in her Vogue UK editorial.

I feel like this is a theme that I continually re-visit: how Freja moves freely about along all these different spectrums. Androgyny/femininity, high fashion/commercial appeal, strong/demure, etc... If I've learned anything from all the time that I spend analyzing and dissecting Freja's career, it's that in order to be a good model-nay a great one-you have to be able to be all things to all people but never lose the essence of your being in the process. It's quite the tall order, but all the tops girls can do it/have done it. Think Raquel. Think Daria. And people believe modeling is easy....well, it doesn't seem so easy to me.

Image Credits: Scans by yala_agni @ Fashion_Screen LiveJournal, style.it, vogue.co.uk

Androgyny or Femininity?

Which characteristic made you a fan of Freja's in the first place?

A comment by reader Miranda on this post got me thinking, and now I'm curious to know, what side of Freja were you drawn to first? And what side remains your favorite? I've made no qualms about my preference for her feminine side, but I also realize that some of you probably only got to know Freja when androgyny dominated her career landscape. So the million dollar question is: Androgyny or femininity?

I made the classic and callous mistake of assuming that everyone felt the same way about the topic as I did, but many of the comments regarding Freja's i-D cover have proven me wrong and shown me that there are a fair number of you out there who prefer her androgynous side.

Perhaps our preferences are just a result of whichever aspect we encountered first? I'm generalizing of course, but it seems like the old school fans love the girlishness while the newer fans love the toughness. The old timers remember the impish teenager from Denmark with the wonderful smile while the newer fans reveal in the brooding New Yorker dressed in head-to-toe black. Despite all my mumblings and severe overuse of the words androgyny and femininity in one post, I do have a point here.

Regardless of what we prefer and how we all came to be known as fans....all these things-these differences-just provide more proof as to what a special model Freja truly is. It's really amazing that she can attract such a wide array of fans based on two characteristics that sit on opposite ends of a spectrum. That speaks to a true and very rare modeling talent. She's the chalice that holds all the different ideals that we use to make the measure of a good model. And I really can't think of another one who has such different appeals to different people. But at the same time, her personality and uniqueness are not lost, but in fact seemingly magnified. It's really quite a paradox and this is what keeps me so intrigued. For with each chapter of Freja's career the paradox seems to grows stronger. Her recent surge in work has increased the scrutiny of her off-duty persona and life. I feel like she has become more "known" than ever before. (Or maybe just more obsessed over. It's a fine line.) Yet at the same time, her work continues to display this wonderful diversity and versatility whereby we'll see her looking demure on the cover of VI one month to looking tough on the cover of i-D in another month. Or we'll see her going from slick and sleek in Vogue UK to 80's glam in W Magazine. All the while you always get the sense that you're looking at something that's utterly Freja-ish.

To be so malleable and yet so distinct is quite a feat and something that Freja's is never given enough credit for. So maybe the answer to my question isn't either or....maybe it's both?

A Change in Perception

Something hit me yesterday when I noticed that Freja didn't re-book Rick Owens or Gareth Pugh this season. There's a change a foot and I think it's in the way people are perceiving her look. I get an overall sense that she's being styled more femininely this season when compared to the past 2-3 seasons. Does anyone else feel it too? And her first time appearance at shows like Anna Sui and Oscar de la Renta, and re-appearance at shows like Carolina Herrera seem to confirm my suspicions. Couple this with her absence at two of the most tough and androgynous shows and the notion is nearly inarguable. All of this is too much for coincidence.

Needless to say, I'm thrilled because I've talked about wanting this femininity to return numerous times. People forget that when Freja started out she wasn't all tough, broody and dressed in head to toe black. She was playful, full of levity and rocking some of the best feminine looks on the catwalks. It's nice to see that the industry is finally rediscovering this side of her after a few seasons of relegating her to the de rigueur androgynous model role.

But I have to wonder what caused this change in perception? It couldn't just be the hair, right? I refuse to believe that something as important as a model's image hinges on something as fleeting as the length of her hair. (Hmmm....but this is fashion after all--an industry based entirely on outward appearance.) Perhaps it's partly attributable to Meisel? When I think back to Freja's career over the past few seasons, these are the only two differences I detect that make this season different from the other ones. Anyway, just something interesting that I wanted to point out. Thoughts? Agree? Disagree?

From the Side

Sometimes I think we focus so much on the view from the front that we miss the beauty of seeing something from the side. These profile shots of Freja are a perfect example of this.

Maybe I'm just weird, but one of my favorite things about Freja is her profile. (Now that I've admitted this, I can just picture you telling yourself to slowly tip-toe back from the computer screen and away from the crazy person. It's ok....the fact that I even started this blog should have already been enough of a tip off to my strangeness.) The sloping lines are graceful and distinctive; simultaneously strong and cute.

In something as simple as this view from the side, I see a microcosm of the characteristics that make Freja captivating as a model. You could say that her brow and sharp nose are masculine and her defined lips are feminine. Even if you don't agree with my assessment, my point is that it's these two polar gender concepts working in tandem that give her an edge in the modeling world. She can toe the middle line or go in either direction on the spectrum.

Sadly, most people only seem to focus on the masculine side when it comes to Freja. Just look at her recent Twin editorial or the SS10 Chanel show. But we must remember that the attractions of androgyny cannot be appreciated without a background impression of femininity, for the two are mutually dependent. The complexities and beauty of one do not exist without the counter balance of the other, and I think we'd all be the better for it if people kept that in mind this upcoming year. Let Freja show her range!

Ugh, sorry for the disjointed ramblings tonight. I'm currently in a location devoid of any real mental stimulation so I've turned to this blog as my outlet. Point of this post: Freja has a pretty profile that I like a lot. I hope that people will stop pigeonholing her as the masculine, androgynous model.

Anyway, merry Christmas, Channukah, Kwanzaa, Solstice, whatever you celebrate at this time of year! I hope it's a good one!

Image Credits: stylesightings.com

Gender Play in German Vogue

Thanks once again to the scanning prowess of tFS member candlebougie, we already have scans of one of Freja's Vogue Germany editorials.

Monokel Diele
Vogue Germany October 2009
Ph: Karl Lagerfeld

At first look the phrases "gender play" and "role reversal" pop into my mind. Using black and white photography and a neutral background, it seems to me as if Karl is making a statement on the fluidity of gender roles and how social constructions play a large part in how we determine who is male and who is female. Anatomy and physiology aside, there are certain social signifiers that we use to determine someone's gender; height, hair length, clothes, dominance, and passivity immediately come to mind. We rely on these signifiers to make assessments about the people around us, but when these signifiers are unexpectedly mixed around things get interesting. Take for example this particular shot from the editorial:

Freja is taller, has short hair and is wearing a bow tie - all things that suggest masculinity. Baptiste is shorter, has longer hair and is donning a corset - all things that suggest femininity. Here they are defying their gender roles; yet at the same time, they are playing into them as well. Freja is wearing a skirt and the highest of high heels. Baptiste is wearing pants and men's dress shoes. He is also taking Freja's hand in his own, exhibiting dominance over Freja's passivity. These are the elements that fit into our conventionally held notions of male and female.

Thus we have a simultaneous embracing and rejecting of traditional gender roles, colliding in the same image with androgyny as the end result. Perhaps it is no coincidence that this shot was the one that stuck out for me as the strongest in the set, because I think it has the most to say.

(Note: I wrote the above before I read the editorial summary: "Women, strong as men. Men, tender as women: In the legendary club of Berlin in the post war period the role of the sexes was completely turned upside down." So I guess my assessment was fairly accurate, except maybe I gave Karl too much credit in the intent of his concept. Maybe he wasn't looking to make some grand social commentary; he just wanted to re-create part of Germany's past, which is fitting for an anniversary issue such as this.)

Androgyny and the mixing of gender characteristics has been done before in fashion, so this editorial is nothing new. However, I think it's beautifully shot and all three models look absolutely stunning. You know that I'd take this overplayed concept any day over the shallow concept of having us gaze at pretty clothes on jumping models.

Lastly, I must say I'm so happy that Freja seems to be Karl's female model muse once again. I wonder what it is about her that draws Karl in? I have some thoughts, but I think those will be better suited to another post. It is amazing that their collaboration has lasted so long and presently shows no signs of slowing. At least someone is giving Freja her due as a model, for otherwise I think she is grossly underrated. While her modeling contemporaries show up at fancy fashion soirees, have the blessings of Anna Wintour (and consequently Vogue US) and Steven Meisel, have issues of magazines dedicated to them, and have fashion luminaries waxing poetic about their looks or bodies, Freja is left virtually unnoticed to occupy the role of the underdog. And I think I might prefer it this way. For the underdog is the one unconfined by conventions and traditions. The underdog is the one with the freedom to grow without the strain of public scrutiny. The underdog is the one who will defy all expectations to eventually come out on top. And that is exciting.

Image Credits: scans by candlebougie @ tFS

In Other Words

I came across a lovely, insightful post about Freja written here on a blog called "July stars." I must say it's absolutely refreshing to read someone else's point of view on Freja and the way she fits into the modeling industry. Perhaps I have a tendency to over elaborate in my posts, but I think we would all benefit if we partook in more thoughtful and analytical discussion/musing. For I think fashion is a subject just as worthy and receptive to intellectualization as any of the other humanities. And maybe if we approached it more often in this manner, it would begin to garner respect rather than disdain so often associated with "frivolous" pursuits.

Sometimes it can get mundane to read the same declarations of praise over and over again, so I'm thoroughly impressed when someone can come up with such eloquent justifications for their thoughts. Some choice quotes:

"She seems very much of her time while also embodying the rebel among more mainstream contemporaries. I love her ability to break old-fashioned fashion judgements with her gentle and almost imperceptible way of interfering with the flow. Her individualism is her most impressive tool, serving as inspiration for the photographer who sometimes will even adapt his or her own agenda to her confident and unique character."

"Her presence is thrilling, intense and she has no trouble capturing the pace and rhythm of a shoot. The photographs are always infused with Freja’s intensely personal energy, all passion and pensive rebellious eyes."

"I tend to believe that the photographer is the one playing the prominent part in the creation of a masterpiece but in the case of stories featuring Freja I’ve come to realize that she’s the fundamental creative thread. Myths exert a powerful influence in the world of fashion, and the myth of the rebel is one of the most powerful."

I definitely could not have said it better myself. And I've never considered the push and pull between a photographer's vision and Freja's strong photographic personality...very interesting take indeed. Anyway, just thought I'd share these wonderful sentiments.

A is for Androgyny

Happy 4th of July weekend to all the Americans out there! And if you're not in the US, I'm sorry you don't get a three day weekend. Maybe this will help get you through the day.

I came across an old issue of Interview magazine with a Freja editorial inside. We saw scans but I remember them being a little iffy, so I've re-scanned because it's a beautiful editorial.

A is for Androgyny
Interview Magazine September 2008
Ph: Mikael Jannson

Note the presence of Sara Blomqvist, a rising young model from Sweden. You can currently see her in the new FW0910 D&G ad campaign, and you can expect to see her on many of the big runways this upcoming season. She had a good showing last season opening Missoni and closing Miu Miu, but I think (and hope) she'll really break out this season.

Sara presents a welcome alternative to the current dominating crop of Eastern European blonds. She's edgy and unique with a feminine touch, much like Freja. And she's absolutely wonderful in editorials like this and this. With such presence like that, I really hope we see much more of her, hopefully in another editorial together with Freja. They make such a striking and strong pair.

And she's a Freja fan as well! Here is what she said about her in a Pony Ryder interview:

PONY RYDER: You did an editorial with model star Freja Beha. How was it? Any tips from the star herself? How do you think you fit in the photo-story with Freja, who has such a unique look?

SARA: I love Freja, she is SO beautiful! The shoot was quite intimate, since we were hugging and looking into each others eyes in almost every picture, but it was fine. She is such a pleasant person! I think we looked really good together, didn't you? :P

I know I always say that I'm tired of seeing Freja in androgynous shoots, but when it's done right and so in-your-face I just love it! Happy fourth and stay safe!

Image Credits: My scans

Russh

I picked up the old issue of Australian magazine Russh the other day. As I was flipping through it this page caught my eye:

I just think it's funny that they have Freja on there twice. Personally, I think they could have chosen better pictures. But I can't complain about their cover:

It's the reason I bought the magazine in the first place. :) For those unfamiliar with the model, she is Estonia's own Karmen Pedaru.

I know it's not groundbreaking news (Freja and androgyny...what a concept), but since it's been slow I thought I would post it. Anyway, hopefully we'll be getting some new eds soon since it's the beginning of the month and magazines' July issues should start coming out soon. Maybe something in Harper's Bazaar? They usually love Freja. Oh! And we also have Chanel, Gucci and Gap ads to look forward to. Wonder when they'll leak? Givenchy has been the only major brand so far to release images so it's only a matter of time!

Image Credits: Scanned by me.

My Cowgirl Hero, Indeed

I actually really like this editorial. Even though I had my reservations in the last post, and even though Freja is still stuck playing the role of the androgynous tough girl, this is a really beautifully shot editorial. Solve Sundsbo has a talent for creating very striking images. I love his use of tonality and shading to create this very mysterious vibe, all while spotlighting the clothes that really do have a western cowgirl feel to them (except maybe for the Balmain dress). For a studio shoot, this editorial is completely engaging and far from boring, even though it is a bit cliche in terms of Freja's oeuvre.

My Cowgirl Hero
Vogue Nippon July 2009
Ph: Solve Sundsbo

I'd really like to see these images in color. Even though I love black and white photography, when it comes to fashion spreads I can't help but feel that an important dimension is taken away from the clothes when they're only shot in b&w. And I wish Solve had shot this on location somewhere. Perhaps the location where he shot this editorial would have also been apropos for this one, non? Anyway, this is definitely one of Freja's strongest editorials in a while, but I just hope it isn't the sole indicator of what we can expect to see from her work wise in the upcoming months. I'm just waiting for someone to give her the chance to show off her softer side once again. That being said, it is weird that my favorite image from the editorial is this one?

It's such a soft, quiet, introspective moment. Seemingly out of place when compared to the other images where Freja is posing strongly and glaring at the camera. Maybe that's why I love it. It's unexpected and simple, yet beautifully and precisely composed. I also love it because you can see five of her tattoos, some of which we've never seen clear images before. The dashed circle behind her ear, the inverted triangle on the back of her neck, the lightning bolt on her side, the phrase on her arm, and the "mine" part of the "this world tonight is mine" phrase tattooed on her wrist. For the longest time I just thought it said "this world tonight." And don't you just love how the triangle tattoo is echoed by the triangle on the strap of the Hermes vest? Intentional or not, that's just so beautiful.

Anyway, huge thanks to MAGstyle at tFS for taking the time to make these beautiful scans. If you're a member of tFS, remember to thank him and to thank all those that scan. It's a tough job and they're generous enough to do it.

Image Credits: Scanned by tFS member MAGstyle